Standing on the edge of North America’s easternmost point, I discovered a land that defies every expectation, and captured my heart completely.
The Call of The Rock
When I first set foot on Newfoundland’s rugged shores in 2019, I had no idea I was about to fall under the spell of one of the world’s most extraordinary destinations. What began as a carefully planned vacation to Canada’s easternmost province transformed into something far more profound—within three months of returning home, I had packed my life into boxes and moved to this magnificent island permanently.
The locals have a term for people like me: Come From Away (CFA). While I may officially bear this designation, Newfoundland & Labrador—affectionately known as The Rock for its dramatic coastlines and exposed bedrock—has become my true home. This perspective, from someone who has experienced both sides of the tourism equation, has given me unique insights into what makes Newfoundland & Labrador so magical, and just as importantly, how to navigate its distinctive challenges.
Newfoundland & Labrador’s rugged coastline lends the name The Rock. Here, a view of Gros Morne National Park.
A Land of Superlatives and Statistics
The numbers tell only part of Newfoundland’s story, but they’re worth understanding. With a population of approximately 550,000 residents welcoming just over 500,000 visitors annually, tourism forms a cornerstone of the provincial economy. This delicate balance between locals and travellers creates an intimate atmosphere that larger destinations simply cannot replicate.
What struck me immediately was the sheer scale of this place. Newfoundland ranks as the 16th largest island on Earth, spanning 108,860 square kilometers (40,850 square miles) of diverse landscapes. From the vibrant row houses of St. John’s’ famous Jellybean Row to the arctic-influenced shores where icebergs drift past ancient fishing villages, every corner reveals something unexpected and awe inspiring.
The island’s tourism season concentrates into a precious few months—June through September—when the harsh Atlantic winters have given way to conditions perfect for whale watching, puffin spotting, iceberg chasing or warm nights on a patio. This compression of the peak travel season into such a brief window helps to create both the magic and the challenges that define a Newfoundland adventure.
A few of the colourful houses of Jellybean Row in the capital city of St. John’s.
The Art of Strategic Planning
My most crucial advice comes from hard-won experience: begin planning your Newfoundland journey at least six months in advance. The window between deciding to visit in April or May and hoping to travel in July or August often proves devastatingly narrow. I’ve witnessed countless disappointed travellers who arrived expecting to simply rent a car or secure last-minute accommodations, only to discover “there isn’t a car on the island” or “every hotel is fully booked.”
This isn’t hyperbole—it’s the reality of visiting a destination where limited infrastructure meets overwhelming seasonal demand. The short travel season and sparse population mean fewer rental cars, accommodations, and even restaurant seats in remote areas. The charm of Newfoundland’s intimate scale becomes a logistical challenge without proper preparation.
Reaching The Rock: A Journey Becomes Destination
Arriving in Newfoundland offers two distinct experiences, each shaping your adventure differently. Most travellers fly into St. John’s International Airport, the province’s primary gateway, landing directly in the capital city on the Avalon Peninsula. However, the island’s immense size means that many attractions lie one to six hours away from St. John’s, depending on your destination and the season.
For those seeking central access, Gander International Airport serves as an alternative entry point, though with more limited flight options. The choice between these airports should align carefully with your planned itinerary, a decision that will significantly impact your ground transportation needs.
The ferry experience offers an entirely different approach to reaching The Rock. From Nova Scotia, you can choose between two routes: the eight-hour journey to Port aux Basques on Newfoundland’s western shore, or the sixteen-hour voyage to Argentia on the southern coast. The Argentia route operates only June through September, but deposits you just 90 minutes from St. John’s—making it the preferred choice for travellers bound for the capital region.
Port aux Basques, while more frequently served, requires a further two to three-day drive to reach St. John’s, though this cross-island journey ranks among Canada’s most spectacular road trips.
Ferry travel comes with an important caveat: Atlantic weather can delay departures for several days, potentially devastating carefully planned itineraries. Always build buffer time into ferry-dependent travel plans.
A ferry preparing to leave Portugal Cove for Bell Island.
Navigating The Rock’s Unique Geography
The reality of traveling within Newfoundland surprised me initially. Roads follow the coastline where fishing communities have flourished for centuries, creating routes that take significantly longer than straight-line distances suggest. A journey from St. John’s to L’Anse aux Meadows—the only verified Viking settlement in North America, dating back over 1,000 years—requires more than eleven hours of driving. The same trip from Gander still demands eight hours.
These extended drive times aren’t necessarily problematic—the scenery along these coastal routes is breathtaking—but they require careful planning for overnight stops and realistic expectations about what you can accomplish in a single day.
Trevelling Newfoundlands highways and byways will lead you to charming villages like Trinity.
Modern navigation technology, unsurprisingly, proves less reliable in Newfoundland’s remote regions than in urban centres. Many outport communities share similar street names—Water Street appears in dozens of villages—and GPS systems regularly misdirect travellers. I learned to always verify destinations through websites, social media, or by asking locals, who invariably offer not just directions but provide fascinating stories about your intended destination.
The Holy Trinity: Icebergs, Puffins, and Whales
Many a Newfoundland visitor dreams of encountering the province’s iconic trio: majestic icebergs, charming puffins, and magnificent whales. The challenge lies in understanding that these natural phenomena rarely occur in the same location, often requiring extensive travel to experience all three during a single visit.
Iceberg season typically spans late April through July, with May and June offering optimal viewing opportunities. These ancient ice formations begin their journey along Labrador’s shores before drifting south past Twillinggate, Fogo Island, and Bonavista, eventually reaching the southern shores near Witless Bay. Each location sits three or more hours from St. John’s, emphasizing again the importance of strategic planning. And while it’s possible to spot an iceberg from the shores of St. John’s, you’re not likely to see the size and quantity on Iceberg Alley.
An iceberg near Twillingate, Newfoundland. Boat tours can often give you an up-close look.
The unpredictability of iceberg seasons adds both excitement and uncertainty to any visit. Some years bring spectacular displays while others offer minimal sightings, with no reliable method for prediction. You can follow the Newfoundland and Labrador Iceberg Reports Facebook group for real-time updates on iceberg locations. This community-driven resource proves invaluable for timing your iceberg quest.
For the ultimate iceberg experience, boat tours provide close encounters that land-based viewing can rarely match. Some operators even allow guests to collect ice fragments—imagine cocktails made with 10,000-year-old ice! These tours require advance booking and can sometimes travel considerable distances to reach active iceberg locations.
Puffin watching centers on the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve, just thirty minutes from St. John’s, where over half a million puffins form North America’s largest colony. These charismatic seabirds, Newfoundland’s provincial bird, are best viewed during June and July, peak season for both bird activity and tourist demand. Boat tours to the puffin islands require advance reservations—showing up hoping for last-minute availability rarely succeeds.
The puffin is the provincial bird of Newfoundland & Labrador.
You can also catch a view of puffins by heading north, to the Elliston area on the Bonavista peninsula. Elliston is known as the root cellar capital of the world, and is included in the UNESCO Discovery Geopark.
Whale watching transforms the tiny hamlet of St. Vincent’s—two hours from St. John’s with a population under 500—into a bustling hub during peak season. The optimal whale watching window spans May through July, when these magnificent creatures follow migratory routes and feed on capelin and other marine life around the province’s waters.
Some tour operators offer combination experiences that include puffins and whales on single excursions, with the possibility of iceberg sightings completing the coveted trifecta. These comprehensive tours represent exceptional value but require not only early booking to secure spots, but a bit of luck from Mother Nature’s timing.
Tails of humpback whales of the coast of Witless Bay, Newfoundland.
Accommodation Realities
The accommodation landscape in Newfoundland reflects both its intimate scale and seasonal pressures. The Avalon Peninsula—home to St. John’s and half the province’s population—offers just over 5,500 rooms. Beyond the capital region, options become more limited: Gander provides 250+ rooms, Corner Brook offers 100+, and Deer Lake maintains 130+ accommodations.
With over half a million annual visitors, most concentrated into the June through September peak season, capacity constraints are real. St. John’s regularly hosts conventions, conferences, and events that can further reduce availability during peak periods.
The accommodation spectrum ranges from modest motels in fishing villages to the world-renowned Fogo Island Inn, a Michelin Guide Three Keys recipient that represents architectural and hospitality excellence. Between these extremes, Airbnb properties, VRBOs, and charming bed-and-breakfasts dot the province.
Sunset over St. John’s, from Signal Hill.
While Newfoundlanders’ legendary hospitality occasionally extends to offering stranded tourists a spare room, this serendipitous backup should never factor into your planning strategy. Advance booking guarantees not only availability but also better rates and selection. If you’re planning to drive your RV around the province you’re in luck! The highways and byways are dotted with camps and RV parks, many of which can be found by checking out Newfoundland & Labrador tourism website: https://www.newfoundlandlabrador.com/
Dressing for The Rock
Newfoundland’s weather embodies the island’s unpredictable character. During peak travel season—June through September—I’ve experienced days requiring shorts followed immediately by evenings demanding winter coats. The harsh winters can extend their influence into June, while July through October generally offer warmer conditions.
Even summer weather can shift dramatically. Multi-day rain systems can drop overnight temperatures to 10°C or below, making warm clothing essential even in mid-summer. As locals say, “If you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes”—a testament to the Atlantic Ocean’s influence on local conditions.
My packing philosophy centres on layering: bring clothes suitable for both warm days and cool evenings, regardless of your travel dates. The maritime climate’s volatility makes weather prediction challenging beyond a few days, so preparation trumps speculation.
Seasonal Business Rhythms
Newfoundland’s tourism-dependent economy creates unique operational patterns that travellers must understand. Many restaurants and attractions outside major centres close completely during off-season months, with some remaining shuttered until July before reopening for the peak season and then closing again before October.
This reality reflects both the concentrated tourism season and the challenges of maintaining year-round operations with limited local populations. Traveling outside the June through October window increases the likelihood of encountering closed businesses, particularly in smaller communities.
Even during peak season, some establishments may operate reduced hours or limited days. Always verify operating schedules before traveling to remote destinations—nothing disappoints quite like discovering your planned lunch stop is closed.
The Irresistible Return
As I reflect on my journey from tourist to resident, I understand why Newfoundland captures hearts so completely. The combination of dramatic landscapes, extraordinary wildlife, rich history, and genuinely warm people creates experiences that linger long after departure. The challenges I’ve outlined—the planning requirements, travel distances, and seasonal constraints—pale in comparison to the rewards awaiting those who prepare
properly.
My advice to every prospective visitor remains simple: plan meticulously, book early, and prepare for magic. Newfoundland rewards the well-prepared traveler with experiences that define lifetime memories. And once you’ve experienced The Rock’s unique charm, you’ll find yourself planning your return visit before you’ve even left.
The second trip, I promise, will be even more extraordinary than the first.
Pre-Planning Checklist:
When to Book
Rental car: 6+ months in advance (earlier for summer travel)
Accommodations: 3–6 months in advance for peak season
Tours (whales/puffins/icebergs): 3–4 months in advance
What to Pack
Layered clothing for all seasons (yes, even in July)
Waterproof rain gear and sturdy shoes
Snacks and supplies for rural travel
Reusable water bottle (many towns don’t have large convenience stores)
Essential Apps & Resources
IcebergFinder.com / “Iceberg Reports” (real-time sightings, in season)
Marine Atlantic (ferry booking & weather alerts)
Destination St. John’s & NL Tourism (seasonal hours, events)
NL 511 for traffic and ferry updates; also available as a smartphone app
Offline maps (cell coverage can be spotty in remote areas)
Insider Tips
Ask a local. Need directions, restaurant recommendations, or sightseeing advice? Newfoundlanders are famously friendly and happy to help.
Mind the place names. Some towns aren’t pronounced how they’re spelled, and accents can contribute to different pronunications. (Example: “Witless Bay” is said exactly as it looks; “St. John’s” is “Sin-John’s,” not “Saint John’s.” The term “Brazil” is a common street name, but is pronounced “Brazzle”, not like the country.)
Watch for capelin rolling. If you’re visiting in late June or July, you may witness capelin (small fish) coming ashore — an incredible natural event that draws scores of locals to harvest the small fish, as well as whales and seabirds to the coast.
Leave room for serendipity. Some of the best memories come from unplanned stops: a pop-up kitchen party, a chat with a local at a small café, or a chance wildlife sighting.
Watch out for moose. Moose wander the province, even occasionally springing up in large centres like St. John’s. When driving, especially at night, be alert, stick to speed limits and keep an eye of for these beautiful, lumbering beasts.
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